I mismanaged my money situation… again…
I planned my money recklessly in Bhutan, I don’t know why,.. (perhaps I was overconfident?). I carried some cash with me and thought that I would use a ATM or credit card to withdraw additional money in Bhutan. That’s the stupidest mistake a traveler can make – to rely on unverified / unreliable sources of funds. Bhutan’s ATMs cater to local customers only and using a credit card is not an option except in high-end hotels. As a result I was constantly worrying about running out of money. In the worst case, I’d have to go back to India, get money, make new permit and re-enter Bhutan. That would waste 2 days.
“Five Chortens” at Paro, waiting for my first ride.
On the last day, I was left only with Rs. 500 (~$11) and all the buses from Paro to Phuentsholing (border town) were fully booked 2 days in advance. The only option left was to take a taxi, which would cost Rs. 450-500. My buddy was in a slightly better position, so he played it safe by taking the taxi, and I could have done the same but I thought of doing something fun.
…I decided to hitchhike, again (I had done it thrice in Bhutan already).
Road from Paro to Bondey along the Paro river, waiting for my second ride.
Hitching a ride is fun
A young woman in her Maruti Zen answered my first ‘hitchhike’ gesture. She was going to Haa, so she agreed to drop me 3-4km away, at a point on the road to India. All I can say is that her driving reminded me of the universal stereotype about women drivers. ermmm….. ๐
My second ride was a guy who worked in the Government of Bhutan. He was chewing a paan (betel nut) like all Bhutanese do all the time and his Maruti Omni van stank smelled like it. He was generous enough to give me a ride for next 18 km (20 min), from Bondey to Chuzom. The vegetation changed and the air got cooler as the road spiraled out of the Paro valley.
Tamchhog Lhakhang, a temple dedicated to the Iron Bridge Lama who built 108 bridges in Bhutan and Tibet.
Chuzom is a T-junction on the confluence of 2 rivers. The roads go to Thimphu, Paro and Phuentsholing (border with India) respectively. In Bhutanese tradition, joining of rivers is considered inauspicious. Hence at the point of confluence, there are 3 chortens to ward away the evil spells. These chortens are built in Bhutanese, Tibetian and Nepali style each.
3 Stupas, built in Bhutanese, Tibetan and Nepali style each, at Chuzom junction and the confluence of 2 rivers.
There is also a police checkpost at this point and they will stamp your permit with an exit marker.
“Where are you coming from?”
“Paro”
“Where are you going?”
“India”
“Where is your vehicle?”
“Over there” I said, pointing to some unknown bus.
“Alright”
It was easier to lie than to explain the whole hitchhiking thing to them… plus I wasn’t doing anything illegal! I also thought that if they’d heard my money crisis, they’d have gone out of their way to help me!
Chuzom bridge. Most roads in Bhutan are built by India’s Border Roads Organization.
After the checkpost, I started walking on the road to India. Several vehicles passed, but nobody stopped for me. I stood there for 30 minutes, occasionally walking ahead. Then I saw some girls walking in the opposite direction, so I greeted them…
“Kuzuzangbo la”, I said.
“Kuzuzangbo la!!”, they sounded surprised and excited.
They told me they were confused to see a foreigner walking on the highway. I told them that I was looking for a ride and chatted with them for a bit, showing off my glorious knowledge of Dzongkha language – hello, yes, no, thankyou, etc.. In no time they stopped a small truck and asked the driver to help me, in what I thought was a flirtatious tone, but maybe it was the language.
That’s how I found they found me my third ride, a meat (chicken) truck.
เคเคพเคฎ เคเคพเคฒเฅ, เคฐเคธเฅเคคเคพ เคฌเคเคฆ! Stranded on the road to India.
The driver was also a 27 yr old guy and in the next 6.5 hours, we became best friends. He told me that he stopped only because he saw the girls. ๐ Oh whatever! The ride was fun. We shared oranges, cookies, chips, candies etc. stopped on the way, met his regular truck buddies and other female friends from the villages that he introduced me to (he called them ‘girlfriends‘). I thought he was enjoying ‘showing off his catch’ or something like that. He took a picture with me everywhere possible. ๐
There was a landslide on the way. Apparently the road was closed since 10 AM, which meant that my buddy in his taxi was stuck somewhere in the huge lineup too. I had told him exactly what to do and which hotel to meet at once we reached India.
So after 3 rides and 9.5 hours on the road, I reached the border town. I loved this exit adventure in Bhutan. ๐ I bought the truck driver a very generous dinner, got drunk on ‘Druk 11000’ (Bhutan’s beer) and quietly crossed the border (minutes before it closed at 23:00) to the familiar smells, sounds and chaos of India, my motherland.
With less than Rs. 50 ($1) left in my pocket, I crossed into India and breathed a huge sigh of relief when I saw an ATM.
Thus, finally my mystical journey to Bhutan, The Land of the Thunder Dragon, was over. Hopefully you liked reading all the chapters, please leave me a note below. Thanks. ๐
[…] goes hitchhiking in Bhutan- On the last day, I was left only with Rs. 500 (~$11) and all the buses from Paro to Phuentsholing […]
[…] to Bhutan. Here are the other posts! « Previous post: Climax of my Bhutan trip | Next post: Exiting Bhutan, when you run out of money […]
What an adventure Priyank ๐ ๐
Hey Mridula! Thanks for linking this to Blogbharti! ๐
Wow! What an adventure! This is one heck of a travelogue. I can’t remember when you first started this, I still remember your post about you sitting in a library reading LP Bhutan. Anyway, since this is over, off to the next one!
Thanks Jeruen. ๐
I’m happy you liked it, although it was kinda long winded and seemed never ending even to me. Russia should be interesting too and I hope not to overdo it.
I have never hitchhiked. ๐ I know it must be fun but I try to meticulously plan a trip. The only time I did not do it was when I went to Munnar and it was a miracle that we got a shelter to sleep than night. ๐
I really really enjoyed the series.
I hear ya Amit! I consider myself a planner too, but there are some completely unpredictable circumstances where even your plan B and C don’t work! ๐ Thankyou for liking the series!
haha hitchhiking :). just this friday – we were trying to get a lift in bby since no autowallahs were willing to come to this place called kanjur marg (15 minute drive). i was just kicked when one person smiled and said no… i didnt even expect anyone to take it seriously in the city…
i’ve heard europe is a place one can hitch hike a lot… i wish i could travel this way. .. ๐ but one doesnt plan for all this i suppose :D!
LOL Are you serious!! In Mumbai?? ๐ Its funny!
I never planned to hitchhike, but I guess such things happen unknowingly!
I’ve done this as well – relying too much on plastic and not exchanging enough money when I have the chance. That stress of possibly running out of money is the worst feeling ever.
Hi Anil,
Crazy eh! I seem to be in a problem all the time, I have justtt enough cash. I don’t know why! Its true in normal (aka non-travel) life too, right now I must have say $5 in my wallet..
Wow! Reminds me of border crossing in Central America.
Miscalculation… yep, been there. In Guatemala, upon arrival by land from Belize, we couldn’t find any ATM and it was too late to change travelers cheques. We starved that night and learned our lesson!
hehehe, I know it must be a common thing with travelers to land up in such troubles.. ๐ Glad you survived, now we are wiser!
Why am I NOT surprised that you hitchhiked!!! You are a true adventurer and using those girls to get you a ride was positively brilliant!!
Would I ever hitchhike if I was alone? I don’t think so. Maybe if I am born as a man in my next life. Last time I tried (in 11th standard), the guy tried to feel me up, so I never ever tried it again!!
Hey Vamsee, Thanks! ๐ Sometimes wonderful experiences come from totally unpredictable situations!
Sorry to hear about that incident. Sick people…
Loved all the posts. Thank you for sharing your adventures with us.
Oh my pleasure. ๐ Thank you.
Ah.. made a very interesting read.. ๐
Thanks Arun! You know how it is like!!
Wow, now that sounds like quite an adventure!!! ๐
Thanks Aarti, it was quite an experience.
[…] has just concluded the series with an interesting post on how he managed to hitchhike out of the country when his money was running out! Read his series […]
aaaaha…. enjoyed every post, wonderful experience… yet to tick off Bhutan from my list.
Thanks Akhila, I’m glad you enjoyed the posts…
Hi, my husband and I are going to spend 12 days in Bhutan, departing from our home in Bangkok in one week. Your report and pictures were very useful to us while preparing the trip. Thanks a lot. Yum and Christophe (A Vietnamese and French travelers)
Thanks Yum (that’s a nice name!) Wish you all the best in your travels!
Hi Priyank,
Your adventure seems to dilute my run-short-of-money stress.
I’m in the same situation now in Bhutan, but worse I dont even have the cash to give now for my hotel rents (didn’t know this resort won’t accept credit cards). Now here i’m left without any exit strategy.
Any border town that have Indian ATM just at the border?
Hi Dami,
I hope you got out of the country! I’ll send you an email. ๐ As far as I know, only the border town (Jaigaon-Phuentsholing) has ATMs
Read ur full travel post and decided to comment at last.
Ur guide will attract anyone to Bhutan who is looking for Holiday(Bhutanese Govt. must be indebted to u !)
Same ways ur post has also entitled me to visit this lovely place.
I have some questions ?
Do Vegetarians have a safe passage there ?
Can we use Indian Currency anywhere there ?
What is the Cheapest time of the year to visit there ?
And for sure i will post ur Journey to many of my friends.
Hi Abhishek,
Welcome to my blog and thanks for the comments!
There are lots of vegetarian options, so no worries at all! Indian currency (except Rs. 100 and Rs. 500 notes) is accepted everywhere.
Hello Priyank!
We are a group of senior citizens from Kolkata, India, planning a trip to Bhutan. I came across your Blog on Bhutan a few days back and I was glued to your story for next 2-3 days. It is the best that I have read in course of our Bhutan trip planning. Surely, this will act as sort of guide for us. Very well written, very lucid, wonderful sense of humor..I just loved it. Now, we have a few quarries. It will be great if you reply to these quarries:
1. The name, phone and other contact details of the Hotels you stayed at Thimphu and also at Paro.
2. You said in your Blog that you availed the last bus of the day from Phuentsolling to Thimpu and you also hinted that it is preferable to pre book the bus tickets. Now my question is : (a) When actually the last bus left Phuentsolling and when did it reach Thimphu? What is the distance from Thimphu Bus Stand to Thimphu City Center where all the Hotels are located? & (b) How one pre books the bus ticket?
I would appreciate your quick response to the above. Thanks & regards.
Hi Ashish, thanks for the comment. Here are my replies, I will also send you an email:
1. Unfortunately I don’t recall any names, but the places I stayed were located in the centre of the city, with tons of options around.
2. The last bus from Phuentsholing to Thimphu was approximately at 14:00. There is a certain time after which vehicles were not allowed to go to Thimphu (due to highway work, the road was one way). The bus reached Thimphu at around 20:00 because we had a problem on the way. The bus stand is located at the edge of the city – just cross the river and you are in the center. In order to pre-book the tickets, go to the Phuentsholing bus station in the morning and buy the tickets in advance. You can cross into Bhutan during the day without a permit, so go there and get a bus ticket so your place is assured.
Hope that helps!
[…] think that I have earned a masters degree in mismanaging money on my travels (Blogged earlier: running out of money in Bhutan). I went to Sochi with lots of cash – some roubles and lots of dollars. Exchanging money is […]
In the last few months, Bank of Bhutan has begun honouring debit cards. At least the card issued by my bank in India. ๐
Aha, good to know Arun! Thanks. ๐