4 weeks, in Afghanistan and a neighbouring country
Afghanistan has been on my list for a while and I was initially planning a six month trip from Kabul to Istanbul. Central Asia is a absolutely beautiful region and I am quite curious to see it. You may know that I like history and geography – to a geeky level. This region, on the silk road, has been at the crossroads of civilization for centuries. With functional knowledge of Russian, Turkish and Farsi, I imagine it would be lot of fun to travel in Central Asia. Unfortunately six months is a long time commitment so I am thinking of doing something shorter. Parts of Afghanistan are now free from the Taliban and safe (well…) to travel and I am looking into traveling to the following places:
Kabul: The capital city,
Bamiyan: Ruins of Buddha statues,
Mazar-e-Sharif and Balkh: Northern cities with beautiful architecture,
Panjshir: Hiking and trekking in the Hindu Kush mountains.
Option 1: Afghanistan and Iran
I have heard nothing but great things about Iran. First hand accounts of warm hospitality, friendly people, stunning scenery and delicious food have tempted me to visit this country for a while. An itinerary I am working on is similar to the one above but includes Herat, a large city in Western Afghanistan closest to the Iranian border. From here, it is possible to cross the border into Iran and travel to Mashhad, the next big city. Indian passport holders can get visa-on-arrival at Iranian airports, but that’s not true for land border crossings.
There is a problem though (besides the Iranian regime prosecuting westerners, homosexuals, women, minorities etc)…
The Israeli stamp problem
Many people get around the issue by renewing their passport, getting immigration stamps on a separate piece of paper (an option not available for Indian passport holders), visiting Israel after traveling to the Muslim countries that impose this ban, or travelling at the end of your passport validity. None of these are applicable for my case so I am left wondering.
Few travel websites have suggested that if the Israeli stamp is several months old, Iranian authorities won’t be too concerned. However, given current political situation, that might be a huge risk.
To conclude, I am still undecided about Iran.
Option 2: Afghanistan and Uzbekistan
This route sounds safer at the moment. If my prayers are answered and the Uzbek-Afghan border is open for tourists, I get to checkout fantastic stops on the ancient Silk route: Bukhara, Samarkand, Tashkent, etc. in Uzbekistan and maybe even Dushanbe in Tajikistan.
Initial preparations
- Languages: I’m thinking of learning basic Farsi (Persian), a language that would be useful to know in this region. Afghanistan has two main languages: Pashto and Dari (Afghani Persian) and learning Farsi will help me communicate verbally as well as read signs. For Uzbekistan I may have to brush up my Russian and Turkish. None of this is necessary but as you may know, I like learning foreign languages at a beginners level.
- Research: Networking with recent travellers and locals would be the key since government reports are usually not very helpful.
- Airline of choice: Doubtlessly, Turkish airlines. The airline not only provides excellent on-board service but also is well connected to almost all corners of the world.
Stay tuned for more!
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Thanks for reading!
Oh my gulay! Uzbekistan! Back in 2007, I told my friends that I’d like to visit Uzbekistan in the next five years; obviously that didn’t happen. I would be so looking forward to the pictures!
😉 Well maybe you can make it happen in 2013!
Wow, that’s quite a trip you are planning! This region of the world is fascinating, I’d love to go there myself but 1) the language barrier 2) being a woman make things tricky. One day, maybe…
It will be the trip of a lifetime for sure!
If you can you should visit the Wakhan Corridor in Afghanistan. I hear it is very beautiful. Quite remote though.
Hard to get there from Kabul, but maybe from the Tajikistan side. It might have to be another trip..
I am reading ‘The Great Game’ right now.. so the places you are planning to visit- Kabul, Bamiyan, Bukhara, Samarkand, Tashkent, all seem super exciting. Central Asia is fascinating! I wish I could come with you.
Yep, that is a very fascinating region! Maybe you CAN come?!
We seem to be mysteriously sharing travel aspirations via a dream-link. I’ve been dreaming of Afghanistan and Iran for more than a decade. When I toured NYC some years back, my friends and I ate at Khyber Pass, on St. Marks. The interior is done in authentic fabrics and fixtures, and it felt like stepping into another world, another time. The food was amazing. Around the corner was Veselka, a Ukrainian cafe. In 2004, I met an Iranian exchange student at ASU. We became good friends, and he introduced me to Persian cuisine and culture, and I was bitten by the Iranian bug. I did the backpack and hostel thing in Europe last year. This summer I’m in Alaska, an onboard guide gig via alaskatourjobs.com. Not adventurous, but my partner will be with me, so it should be fun and interesting! Love your website!
So where are you going finally?
Uzbekistan is well worth a visit, but can indeed be hard to get to (and to arrange a visa).
Went there a few years ago, flew in via Moscow. Just clearing customs in Tashkent took 4 hours (clearing customs on the way out took maybe 10 minutes).
Having a local agent working for you (and acting as a guide) helps massively, also because knowledge of foreign languages in Uzbekistan is very poor (only a few percent of the population speak any English, Russian a bit better supported among the older people and the very young, but most only speak Uzbek and/or Tadjik.
A local agent can also do wonders to get you the required invitation letters you’ll need to get a visa approved at all.